I am here, we are here, together, in Delhi. It is hot, crowded, and the distribution of wealth varies dramatically-more than I thought possible. It is beautiful and breathtaking, although the breathtaking aspect is a result of the overwhelming smog, car exhaust, and constant smell of urine. I love it. Let me paint you a picture.
Taylor and I arrived at 4:55 a.m. after two days of traveling. Instead of being ripped off by a taxi cab, which they make more than likely, we get a pre-paid, fixed destination cab. Seeing our cabbie is sly he says that we have no fixed address on our pre-paid slip and for an extra 50 Rs (Rupees), on top of our fixed rate, he would gladly take us to a more central part of Connaught place (our planned destination). He stops at a deserted part to encourage our donation of 50 Rs. We knew we wanted to be near Connaught place, the central nest of this hive, Delhi. We, being the eager walkers that we are, say it's fine and are let out of the cab on the outskirts of C.P. (Connaught place). Within seconds a type of poverty not visible or existent in Canada is very apparent. Although we had no hotel/hostel reservations we did have a destination in mind, the Gold Inn.
Taylor and I arrived at 4:55 a.m. after two days of traveling. Instead of being ripped off by a taxi cab, which they make more than likely, we get a pre-paid, fixed destination cab. Seeing our cabbie is sly he says that we have no fixed address on our pre-paid slip and for an extra 50 Rs (Rupees), on top of our fixed rate, he would gladly take us to a more central part of Connaught place (our planned destination). He stops at a deserted part to encourage our donation of 50 Rs. We knew we wanted to be near Connaught place, the central nest of this hive, Delhi. We, being the eager walkers that we are, say it's fine and are let out of the cab on the outskirts of C.P. (Connaught place). Within seconds a type of poverty not visible or existent in Canada is very apparent. Although we had no hotel/hostel reservations we did have a destination in mind, the Gold Inn.
Meanwhile the sun is rising, the streets are still calm but becoming more active. The homeless are huddled in the street, groups of 10 or 20 , babies, elders and all else. Dogs lay spread, motionless like they are dead or dying next to the groups as we walk by. The morning heat is too much for them, for all. 40 minutes or so pass, we reach 'main bazaar' PaharGanj, Delhi: a full attack, a bombardment on the senses, even at 7 a.m.. I am making it grim, but really, it is great. I am glad you are here with me.
We are settled in, we have viewed a few hostels and the rooms available but with no commitment; we were guided to the hostel we sought, only by chance though. A young man is paid to seek out travellers and guide them to a hostel, he is then paid commission and the one who was lead pays a high price to compensate. We knew where we wanted to end up, he looses. We are asked to pay 700 Rs, the equivalent to 14 dollars CDN, but we talk him down to 225 Rs each; 450 for the night.
We cannot be victims of fatigue or jet lag, we need to stay up all day so we can sleep that night and adjusted by morning. A long shot but a goal none the less. We begin to wander, this time without our 70 Kg pack.
I get it, my first post was much more comedic, let's move on to the fun stuff.
Like everyone, hunger ensues. Eat or be eaten. I am not about to be eaten, although the amount of people, smog and the sheer shock of the culture differences are definitely willing to swallow you whole. So, I eat. I have never, before this moment, tasted curry. Let it be known that this journey is a result of many things, one of them being my love for Indian food. So, for 18 Rs (20 Cents), I find myself squatting next to a street vendor's 1920's cart with my Chapati, rice, Chana Masala, and another mystery curry dish, smiling like The Joker. To say the least it was DELHIcious. Yeah, I have been saving that one, no doubt. But seriously, best stuff money can buy...Okay, it only cost me 20 cents but it tasted priceless. I have eaten from many other street vendors since and I even have a street Chai guy for the early morning wake ups. It takes him 45 seconds to mix up the best cup of milk Chai imaginable, and for only 5 cents.
We are settled in, we have viewed a few hostels and the rooms available but with no commitment; we were guided to the hostel we sought, only by chance though. A young man is paid to seek out travellers and guide them to a hostel, he is then paid commission and the one who was lead pays a high price to compensate. We knew where we wanted to end up, he looses. We are asked to pay 700 Rs, the equivalent to 14 dollars CDN, but we talk him down to 225 Rs each; 450 for the night.
We cannot be victims of fatigue or jet lag, we need to stay up all day so we can sleep that night and adjusted by morning. A long shot but a goal none the less. We begin to wander, this time without our 70 Kg pack.
I get it, my first post was much more comedic, let's move on to the fun stuff.
Like everyone, hunger ensues. Eat or be eaten. I am not about to be eaten, although the amount of people, smog and the sheer shock of the culture differences are definitely willing to swallow you whole. So, I eat. I have never, before this moment, tasted curry. Let it be known that this journey is a result of many things, one of them being my love for Indian food. So, for 18 Rs (20 Cents), I find myself squatting next to a street vendor's 1920's cart with my Chapati, rice, Chana Masala, and another mystery curry dish, smiling like The Joker. To say the least it was DELHIcious. Yeah, I have been saving that one, no doubt. But seriously, best stuff money can buy...Okay, it only cost me 20 cents but it tasted priceless. I have eaten from many other street vendors since and I even have a street Chai guy for the early morning wake ups. It takes him 45 seconds to mix up the best cup of milk Chai imaginable, and for only 5 cents.
On the left ( A resting place in the middle of an intersection comparable to the middle of champlain bridge at rush hour maybe worse.) On the right (PaharGanj, where I am staying)
The touristy places: The Red Fort, Raj Ghat, Humayun's tomb, Gandi Smriti have been visited. They are beautiful and worth the visit. They have historical value, context and everything one wants from tourist hot spots. For me though, I feel like they, not necessarily could have been missed but rather they miss what Delhi is about right here and right now. Outside the walls of these places, literally right outside of these walls, people are starving, homeless and neglected. The main attractions may be the big old forts but the real tastes of this meal has to be the streets jam-packed with people, the road side meals and auto- rickshaw rides that would test the courage of, well, someone who has an excess courage. The last thing Delhi or India is, is unexciting. The best part for me is that my journey through here is just beginning.
To leave you today with something I jotted down yesterday, "Personally I do not think I am gifted enough, or rather, poetic enough to put what i see into words and do justice to what is happening all around this world." The best thing I can do is keep trying. Until next time...
the woman behind you in that photo looks so bemused
ReplyDeleteGreat post, glad to read it. sounds deliriously fascinating. keep trying hard.It all sounds real mind-blowing, so i will continue, for now, to happily live it vicariously through your blogs. and don't let those fuckers fuck you over(though they are just trying to make a living) with price negotaitation, but i don't worry much about that for you over there, when it comes to that kind of thing are King. and don't worry about that poetic bullshit, the point is truth and honesty, which is what you are doing and underneath are going for. the best thigns in life are not meant to be described by words. that's part of what makes them so moving and great and lasting. anyway i'm rambling here. by the way, reading East of Eden for class(after years of you haggling me to get on that). your brother in arms, as always, Phil
ReplyDeleteHey Topher, watch out eating from food vendors in the street ! You are NOT invincible.. take it from somebody who spent 6 weeks in an Indian hospital (hepatitis B)from drinking the water, etc. Be sure food is well cooked, and only drink bottled water.. Last time 2003 we visited, I lasted 5 weeks before Montazumas Revenge struck with a vengence.. and we were being very careful. But seriously, it is a BLAST .. like nowhere else..
ReplyDeleteLv yeah .. Unc B